By the 3rd day I got what I wanted from my cross country train ride, some good conversation with folks on a train that I wouldn't have met anywhere else. Maybe it took 2 days to wear down my walls which are thick and the judge in my head, I just couldn't hear him any more.
When we switched trains in Chicago the whole staff changed for the better, well, kinda better. They were nicer than those folks out west. The train itself was cobbled together from random train cars and us coach folks with the cheap tickets were put into a business class car. Chicago like most of the country was hit with the blizzard and sub zero temperatures. Outside in the switching yard it looked like the apocalypse. Fires blazing to keep the tracks from freezing. I started to feel alive. This was no longer a dull trip. And yeah, people were still crazy and the sub zero chill made them crazier. The staff was serving free cheap booze maybe to calm the nerves of the riders who were being delivered late in a cold and cramped coach.
The passengers varied from all walks of life. Some very 'normal' folks, an older Amish couple in the seat in front of me making out like high school kids all night, a couple young hip hoppers with some bling and tacky jackets with dollar signs and other symbols of male territorial prowess on them, some college type girls getting loaded (heck, most of the train was getting loaded!), a gunky on vacation from jail telling his boring stories about being arrested for bullshit and how unfair the world was (he was telling his tales to a couple young girls, maybe 16-20 years old. They were impressed.), a huge church dude who kept muttering scripture as he passed out.
The young hip hoppers had the most calming and beautiful voices, this deep baritone going in counterpoint to the gunkys' tenor and increasingly drunk teenage girls' soprano who told one poor woman who was trying to sleep to shut the fuck up mixed with the sounds of tongue and whispers from the older Amish couple. The 'shut the fuck up bitch' was one of those startling moments in the symphony, a moment where you knew everything could change. An uneasy major chord to a chaotic minor. As I passed out I could here the huge church man muttering scriptures in his sleep. A large bald dude in a pea coat joined me in my row, we picked him up in Godknowswhereville Indiana. He was cool, tired and just wanted to sleep. I felt okay with him next to me. The last thought I had before passing out was 'someone is going to die on this train tonight'. I think that was inspired by scripture man. The bible always makes me think about mortality. That's one gloomy ass book.
I woke up to a scream, the peak of the 3rd movement in this rolling symphony of stupidity. The tension in the air warmed the cold room up. We were slowing down. Commotion. I could here the Amish couple whispering. I could here the hip hoppers saying in that bassoon like voice 'yeah, we gonna kill that motherfucker'. Someone was going to die tonight. We stopped in the middle of a field somewhere in Ohio. Pitch black, -12 degrees outside.
One of the now very drunk teenage girls passed out sharing the gunkys' blanket and woke up with his hand down here pants. The hip hoppers were out to do what young men are trained to do and avenge the trespass with death, or maybe just beat the stupid old boring man up. The gunky was trying desperately to get off the train which if he succeeded he would have died. There were no lights outside at all, just a frozen Ohio. No man could survive too long out there with a jean jacket and a johnny cake. Fortunately for him the staff bagged him and cuffed his skinny ass before the hip hoppers could prove they were men now. He was removed by the cops when the sun came up.
Before that my mysterious bald passenger vanished and was replaced by a young scared college boy who was dull as dishwater. He seemed bent on proving to me that he was not gay by repeating his side of the story. A girl in distress asked him to go into the bathroom with her and she's telling him about the assault and all that is going in his mind is "is this a girl or a fag standing in the bathroom cause I ain't gay blah blah blah." Oh fear. Make a mind stupid. Of fearful boy, why the fuck are you talking to me? At this point it's no longer a symphony, just another stupid noise band responding to a mediocre world.
When the sun rose my bald pea coat wearing passenger returned and another cat boarded the train. He was a black Muslim Vietnam Vet jazz drummer named Kazem. We rode together for the next leg. Finally 2 intelligent beings that were mature and interesting. The bald guy drove freight trains for a living, I think his name was Jim and he played harmonica while doing his job. He was a native Pittsburgh resident going home. Kazem drove a truck and was from Philly and was headed home as well. We talked music and life stuff, lots of laughs. At one point separated cause the car was no longer packed and we needed to sleep. As we passed out the hip hoppers had their music cranked on the ear goggles to the point where Kazem growled "TURN THE MUSIC DOWN PLEASE!" The complied right away. He had this calm authority to him. He turned to me and said "that music has everything, good beat, good sounds, but those lyrics man, it's killing us."
After breakfast we resumed talking. I told them a story about my great grandfather Charles who was a Pullman Porter back during World War 2 on the troop transport trains. He had all kinds of stories riding through the south navigating racist bullshit, hustling people, and stealing apples in Washington State and not getting arrested cause the orchard owner had a South Carolina accent and so did one of the Porters. Stories of picking up Bing Crosby in the middle of a field in Montana as he rode up on a horse cause he needed a ride to Chicago. Stuff that would never happen on the rails today cause that world is gone. Even his hard luck stories he told with the greatest smiles. He knew that world is gone and he was just glad to have been there.
My favorite story he told I shared with my friends. Charles had a stop in Los Angeles. He was walking through the station when a man approached him and said "Hey man, you look like am man who is down on your luck. Let's step into this bar over here, I got a job for you". Charles told me in those days he almost always had $400 in his pocket but he stepped in anyway to hear the mans offer. The man ordered a couple whiskeys and they sat across each other at a table. He handed my Great Grandfather a brown paper bag with $500 in cash, a pistol and a hotel room key and told him "take care of this guy and meet me here tomorrow at noon and I'll settle up the other half". Charles said "okay", took the bag, waited till he felt it was safe, caught the next train out of there and never went back to Los Angeles again.
Kazem asked me "man, could you ever do that?" I said "what? Kill someone? Take that money? Hell no, that's just not in me. Could you?" Kazem replied "well, I was in the air force during Vietnam so yeah I killed, it was my job though I'm not happy about it. I almost killed a kid who mugged me. I could have done it but I stopped. Couldn't have been more than 14." Kazem turned to Jim, our freight driver and says "You awful quiet over there, what about it?"
Jim replied rather calmly "well, I'd never do it on purpose, but I've killed lots of people." We both said "oh yeah?" as we nervously moved away from him slightly. "Yeah, I drive a freight train through Akron Ohio. There's almost always a sad sack who wants to die. Can't stop something that is a mile long when it's in motion." I asked him "man, what is that like?" Ed replied, "well the worst part is they like to make eye contact with you, that fucks you up the first few times, like it's your fault. Then after we stop the train an investigation happens, it's a Union job so I get as much time off as I need and therapy though it's so routine now that I don't need all of that." I asked how many. "Oh man, I lost count after 30. The only time it messes me up now is when it's a kid."
Yeah, our ride was quiet after that. Not much else to say. We rode into western Pennsylvania and the world was frozen. The Ohio river completely still but the sun was shining. Somehow Pittsburgh looked like heaven that day. Jim hopped off and Kazem and I boarded a bus to Harrisburg for no fires could keep the tracks safe in Pennsylvania. Somehow on the highway the world looked like heaven and the apocalypse at the same time. Maybe they are the same?
When we switched trains in Chicago the whole staff changed for the better, well, kinda better. They were nicer than those folks out west. The train itself was cobbled together from random train cars and us coach folks with the cheap tickets were put into a business class car. Chicago like most of the country was hit with the blizzard and sub zero temperatures. Outside in the switching yard it looked like the apocalypse. Fires blazing to keep the tracks from freezing. I started to feel alive. This was no longer a dull trip. And yeah, people were still crazy and the sub zero chill made them crazier. The staff was serving free cheap booze maybe to calm the nerves of the riders who were being delivered late in a cold and cramped coach.
The passengers varied from all walks of life. Some very 'normal' folks, an older Amish couple in the seat in front of me making out like high school kids all night, a couple young hip hoppers with some bling and tacky jackets with dollar signs and other symbols of male territorial prowess on them, some college type girls getting loaded (heck, most of the train was getting loaded!), a gunky on vacation from jail telling his boring stories about being arrested for bullshit and how unfair the world was (he was telling his tales to a couple young girls, maybe 16-20 years old. They were impressed.), a huge church dude who kept muttering scripture as he passed out.
The young hip hoppers had the most calming and beautiful voices, this deep baritone going in counterpoint to the gunkys' tenor and increasingly drunk teenage girls' soprano who told one poor woman who was trying to sleep to shut the fuck up mixed with the sounds of tongue and whispers from the older Amish couple. The 'shut the fuck up bitch' was one of those startling moments in the symphony, a moment where you knew everything could change. An uneasy major chord to a chaotic minor. As I passed out I could here the huge church man muttering scriptures in his sleep. A large bald dude in a pea coat joined me in my row, we picked him up in Godknowswhereville Indiana. He was cool, tired and just wanted to sleep. I felt okay with him next to me. The last thought I had before passing out was 'someone is going to die on this train tonight'. I think that was inspired by scripture man. The bible always makes me think about mortality. That's one gloomy ass book.
I woke up to a scream, the peak of the 3rd movement in this rolling symphony of stupidity. The tension in the air warmed the cold room up. We were slowing down. Commotion. I could here the Amish couple whispering. I could here the hip hoppers saying in that bassoon like voice 'yeah, we gonna kill that motherfucker'. Someone was going to die tonight. We stopped in the middle of a field somewhere in Ohio. Pitch black, -12 degrees outside.
One of the now very drunk teenage girls passed out sharing the gunkys' blanket and woke up with his hand down here pants. The hip hoppers were out to do what young men are trained to do and avenge the trespass with death, or maybe just beat the stupid old boring man up. The gunky was trying desperately to get off the train which if he succeeded he would have died. There were no lights outside at all, just a frozen Ohio. No man could survive too long out there with a jean jacket and a johnny cake. Fortunately for him the staff bagged him and cuffed his skinny ass before the hip hoppers could prove they were men now. He was removed by the cops when the sun came up.
Before that my mysterious bald passenger vanished and was replaced by a young scared college boy who was dull as dishwater. He seemed bent on proving to me that he was not gay by repeating his side of the story. A girl in distress asked him to go into the bathroom with her and she's telling him about the assault and all that is going in his mind is "is this a girl or a fag standing in the bathroom cause I ain't gay blah blah blah." Oh fear. Make a mind stupid. Of fearful boy, why the fuck are you talking to me? At this point it's no longer a symphony, just another stupid noise band responding to a mediocre world.
When the sun rose my bald pea coat wearing passenger returned and another cat boarded the train. He was a black Muslim Vietnam Vet jazz drummer named Kazem. We rode together for the next leg. Finally 2 intelligent beings that were mature and interesting. The bald guy drove freight trains for a living, I think his name was Jim and he played harmonica while doing his job. He was a native Pittsburgh resident going home. Kazem drove a truck and was from Philly and was headed home as well. We talked music and life stuff, lots of laughs. At one point separated cause the car was no longer packed and we needed to sleep. As we passed out the hip hoppers had their music cranked on the ear goggles to the point where Kazem growled "TURN THE MUSIC DOWN PLEASE!" The complied right away. He had this calm authority to him. He turned to me and said "that music has everything, good beat, good sounds, but those lyrics man, it's killing us."
After breakfast we resumed talking. I told them a story about my great grandfather Charles who was a Pullman Porter back during World War 2 on the troop transport trains. He had all kinds of stories riding through the south navigating racist bullshit, hustling people, and stealing apples in Washington State and not getting arrested cause the orchard owner had a South Carolina accent and so did one of the Porters. Stories of picking up Bing Crosby in the middle of a field in Montana as he rode up on a horse cause he needed a ride to Chicago. Stuff that would never happen on the rails today cause that world is gone. Even his hard luck stories he told with the greatest smiles. He knew that world is gone and he was just glad to have been there.
My favorite story he told I shared with my friends. Charles had a stop in Los Angeles. He was walking through the station when a man approached him and said "Hey man, you look like am man who is down on your luck. Let's step into this bar over here, I got a job for you". Charles told me in those days he almost always had $400 in his pocket but he stepped in anyway to hear the mans offer. The man ordered a couple whiskeys and they sat across each other at a table. He handed my Great Grandfather a brown paper bag with $500 in cash, a pistol and a hotel room key and told him "take care of this guy and meet me here tomorrow at noon and I'll settle up the other half". Charles said "okay", took the bag, waited till he felt it was safe, caught the next train out of there and never went back to Los Angeles again.
Kazem asked me "man, could you ever do that?" I said "what? Kill someone? Take that money? Hell no, that's just not in me. Could you?" Kazem replied "well, I was in the air force during Vietnam so yeah I killed, it was my job though I'm not happy about it. I almost killed a kid who mugged me. I could have done it but I stopped. Couldn't have been more than 14." Kazem turned to Jim, our freight driver and says "You awful quiet over there, what about it?"
Jim replied rather calmly "well, I'd never do it on purpose, but I've killed lots of people." We both said "oh yeah?" as we nervously moved away from him slightly. "Yeah, I drive a freight train through Akron Ohio. There's almost always a sad sack who wants to die. Can't stop something that is a mile long when it's in motion." I asked him "man, what is that like?" Ed replied, "well the worst part is they like to make eye contact with you, that fucks you up the first few times, like it's your fault. Then after we stop the train an investigation happens, it's a Union job so I get as much time off as I need and therapy though it's so routine now that I don't need all of that." I asked how many. "Oh man, I lost count after 30. The only time it messes me up now is when it's a kid."
Yeah, our ride was quiet after that. Not much else to say. We rode into western Pennsylvania and the world was frozen. The Ohio river completely still but the sun was shining. Somehow Pittsburgh looked like heaven that day. Jim hopped off and Kazem and I boarded a bus to Harrisburg for no fires could keep the tracks safe in Pennsylvania. Somehow on the highway the world looked like heaven and the apocalypse at the same time. Maybe they are the same?